Removing the Old Faucet – Install a New Faucet (Part 2 of 4)

How To Install A Faucet

Part 2: The hardest part… removing the old faucet!

now that you have looked under your bury, you can see how hamper and difficult it is to work there. ( Is that why plumbers make such beneficial money ? ) Amazing how those big guys get under those little cabinets !
dismantling of the old faucet is normally reasonably square. Most removal problems are associated with shutoffs that do n’t shutoff and mounting hardware that is dispiritedly corroded. We will deal with these problems foster along.

A)  Be prepared… have a bucket and towels handy ’cause
you never know! And, of course, face protections

Stuff happens, so constantly lay an absorbent material towel on the floor of the cabinet ! If the pipes from the shutoff come up through the floor, wind towels or washcloths around the free-base to keep water from leaking under the cabinet ( or polish to the room below ) .
Working under the sink means that anything that falls depressed ( such as dust, pieces of brass, bolts, nuts and even tools ) might hit your face or get into you nostrils or hair. Be careful. At the minimal, wear eye protection. Or better however, a guardant shield .

B)  It is preferable to turn the water off at the shutoffs under
the sink… if they work!

certain, you could turn the water off at the main water shutoff alternatively of wrestling with those erstwhile, close sink shutoffs, but there is a potential trouble … DRAINBACK!!
“ Drainback ” occurs when person opens another faucet or flushes a toilet that is physically higher than the shutoffs you are working on. Once the vacuum within the pipes is broken, water will quickly “ drain down ” through the outdoors shutoffs giving you a good spray, emptying the pipes and flooding the kitchen !
even if you have everyone locked in a closet, including your potty-trained guy, there will even be some escape from an open shutoff. If it is slender and you are quick, you might be able to just put a little bucket under the shutoff and proceed .

Back to the shutoffs…

Most shutoffs under sinks are only used when the faucet is replaced. Shutoffs are like your consistency … miss of manipulation does not mean longer life ! The constitution of “ scale ” … a arduous brass on the metallic element parts from minerals in the water … causes shutoffs to become close and sometimes inoperable .
A little opinion using ViseGrips or pliers for leverage on the handles can turn most balking shutoffs. ( Look at the graphic for the best way to use ViseGrips on a typical oblong shutoff handle. )
evening with the best of intentions, sometimes the leave is a bent and useless handle ! Before twisting it into a pretzel …
1 ) Turn the shutoff in the counter-clockwise ( on ) focus first. even a belittled turn in this commission may free up the shutoff. amazingly, I have frequently seen shutoffs entirely partially turned on. In this case turning the shutoff back and forth a few times will loosen it up wonderfully !
2 ) slightly loosen the carry nut … the en around the infrastructure of the shank where it enters the shutoff body. A plumber will sometimes tighten … or overtighten … the packing en as a immediate way to stop a slight drip around the bow. Overtightening can make the shutoff impossible to turn ! You should have the main water turned off for this maneuver. The shutoff may begin to drip or even spray water if you loosen the compact nut besides much ! ! ( If it ‘s Saturday night, merely get the soap ! )

You will need two wrenches … one on the pack crackpot and one on the faucet body so that you do n’t put besides much imperativeness on the pipes .
IMPORTANT:  Be sure to retighten
the packing nut before turning the main water back on!

Tighten the pack addict about a quarter of a twist tighter than necessary to stop dripping around the stem .

You can also repair or replace the shutoff…

Repair consists of disassembling the shutoff, lubricating all parts, replacing the pack and the washer, and then reassembling it. If you take the stem forum to a plumb store, you might be able to get a spanking-new shutoff and swap the stem, which will have new carry and a washer !
Worst lawsuit, you may have to remove the old shutoffs and replace them .
however, if there is a little drip from the faucet when the shutoffs are fully closed and you do n’t feel like repairing it proper now, turn off the main water. That should stop the dribble enough for you to continue your installation .

C) Remove the old sink sprayer the easy way!

Don’t bother to unscrew any connections on your old sprayer … it ‘s going in the trash anyhow ! alternatively, get a match of shears or a acute utility knife and cut the hose under the sink at its lowest point. If the faucet is shut off, you will alone get a few drips from the hosiery. then, holding each end over a nice red bucket ( color optional ), open the faucet ( hot and cold ) and activate the old atomizer. All the water within the hose will drain down. Cool .

D)  Disconnect the faucet from the plumbing

I always recommend replacing the faucet intake tubes with a fresh faucet, even if they appear to be the right length and in dear condition. possibly I’m superstitious …
Since it can be difficult to remove an all-copper provide, merely cut it. Make sure the faucet is turned off ( and, of course, the water is off ! ). Use a small pipe stonecutter to cut the issue tubes airless to the shutoffs. You will get a few drips but nothing unplayful. then bend the now-cut supply tube over a pan or bucket and open the faucet to break the vacuum. The water system in the faucet will drain into the bucket. Do the lapp for the other provision pipe. A modest total of body of water will remain in the “ stub ”, which will drain out when the compression nut is removed.

E)  Unbolt the faucet from the sink… keep your fingers

here is the cause I titled this section “ The hardest depart … ”. many modern sinks use rust-proof credit card fasteners, stainless steel or quality zinc-plated fasteners which may never corrode. however, your old faucet ‘s fasteners might have corrosion that prevents easy removal. besides, if you had a dull, long-run leak either at one of the connections or water escape around the faucet mounting gasket, the connections could be covered with rock-hard mineral deposits that may defy all attempts at removal with a wrench .
Desperate times require desperate measures. Get that protective eyewear on, get out your electric exercise and carefully drill a few holes into the stubborn en. Make surely you are using a sharp drill snatch so you will need less pressure ( which equals greater control ). Start with a fairly small fly fix … 1/8 ” is o … and then use a large-enough bit to break the addict. You will probably have to drill into the nut in a few locations to free it. Prying the nut into pieces with a screwdriver might besides be necessary .
once the climb nut ( randomness ) are history, pull off any extra washers or other fasteners and lift the faucet from the sink. You might have to straighten the supply tubes ( if applicable ) to get them out through the hole. Or you could just cut them off before you pull the faucet out … your predict !

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